T here are plump, crumb-coated croquettes of peas and tarragon waiting to pop into sizzling oil and slices of potato, partly cooked and ready to toast under the grill. The pea croquettes will sit on a tangle of pea shoots and herbs. The potatoes will get a sauce of sweet, golden onion, curry paste and yoghurt.
Both are the sort of recipes you can prepare in advance, leaving only the cooking to the last minute. The croquettes, big fat fritters of peas and tarragon, have a back note of wasabi. The mild heat flatters the peas and unexpectedly brings the tarragon to the fore.
Ideally, its presence is gently felt, but you can add more or less as the fancy takes you. Equally, the curry paste in the yoghurt sauce can whisper or sing as loudly as you wish. I chose a mild paste with a hint of tomato and paprika whose slightly sour notes make the recipe dance.
The important detail is not to let it boil once you have stirred in the yoghurt. Much of my eating is in this style at the moment. The dishes I find myself drawn to can be partly made earlier in the day, leaving only a little last-minute cooking.
They are substantial enough to be a light main course or useful as an accompaniment. Relaxed cooking for pretty much any occasion. Grilled potatoes with curry yoghurt sauce Use your favoured curry paste here.
(I used a bhuna paste, which lent a slight tart and smoky quality to the sauce.) Serves 4. Ready in 45 minutes potatoes 400g, medium-sized curry leaves 30 onion 1, large ground nut .
