“It is not a nostalgic or particular prism of a woman,” said Louise Trotter, when asked how the heritage of Carven informs her approach. “It’s that sense of silhouette and sense of proportion with an ease of today.” Trotter has shown two runway collections since arriving at Carven.
But by the quirk of pre-collection timing, this is the first glimpse of fall that customers can get their hands on—and not just at the Carven boutique or Net-a-Porter but at a wider array of stockists. If there is a sense of deference to the archive, it is with a light touch. Mainly, Trotter seems most interested in the 1950s column silhouette, which she might expand slightly in a pair of trousers or adjust proportionally through a more contemporary, tonal layering of a tank dress over a t-shirt.
Browsing the lineup, it seemed noteworthy that the first and last looks featured what appeared to be the same ample, softly tailored coat, the former in double-face cashmere, the latter in chocolate wool gabardine. These deftly confirmed what she described as her masculine hand, while establishing that a mannish sensibility can be transposed to feminine silhouettes. See also the double-breasted jacket and turtleneck that give way to a gauzy, slip skirt, which Trotter explained as her ongoing exploration of dressed and undressed.
The full-length black dress with straps that unzip—leaving one part to graze the arm if so desired—direct this pursuit into a single, highly desirable piece. Becaus.
