The Varnish, a legendary cocktail bar that heralded a modern cocktail revolution in L.A., will close its doors Wednesday after being open for more than 15 years.
In 2009, Eric Alperin, Sasha Petraske and Cedd Moses opened the bar hidden behind an unmarked door inside the more than century-old sandwich shop Cole’s French Dip. The speakeasy used seasonal and fresh produce, vintage recipes and artisanal spirits. Soon, it became the epicenter of L.
A.’s burgeoning cocktail scene at the time, serving up finely-crafted drinks, such as a well-executed Aviation with homemade crème de violette. After years of trying to keep afloat during the COVID-19 pandemic, the Varnish was only making half the business it did prior, said Alperin.
Alperin said the bar never quite recovered after the onset of COVID-19. He worked on trying to keep the bar alive, but it became financially unsustainable. The last six months have been particularly difficult.
“The community of people living downtown, it isn’t what it used to be,” he said. “A lot of people moved out and moved on. They went away.
It just isn’t happening downtown the way it used to be.” At the same time, the number of people experiencing homelessness has increased in the area near the Varnish, which keeps patrons away, Alperin said. The Varnish joins a growing number of food and beverage establishments that have closed because of financial difficulties.
Edged by small booths with wood tables decorated with sconces, the 1920s.
