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I can’t stop eating in Koreatown. As my fingers fly across the keyboard, I anticipate the angry emails from readers in the various valleys (I hear you, San Fernando Valley) and beyond. I promise there will be more columns devoted to wherever you live, soon.

But if you’re like me, and use 6th Street or Olympic Boulevard as the main arteries between east and west Los Angeles, you spend a lot of time in Koreatown . And with an almost constant influx of new restaurants, tea and dessert shops, I have always found the culinary and cultural wonderland irresistible. During one of my recent treks across the city, I noticed Supamu, the restaurant that replaced spicy fried chicken specialist Michin Dak on the corner of 6th and South Catalina streets.



It’s more of a stand than an actual restaurant, and it serves about 20 iterations of what it calls Okinawan-style onigiri . “We wanted to do something quirky and fun with Spam,” owner Young Kim said on a recent call. “Our main ingredients are Spam and tamago.

” The onigiri is presented as a sort of stacked sandwich versus the more traditional ball of rice that envelops a filling. They’re similar to onigirazu , the plastic-wrapped sushi sandwiches that originated in the “Cooking Papa” manga series in the 1990s. And with the inclusion of Spam, they’re more reminiscent of Spam musubi , the popular Hawaiian food that consists of Spam and rice with a band of toasted seaweed.

Each Supamu onigiri includes two layers of nori-wr.

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