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XO Brasserie in Charleston thrives during the influential moments before the first bites are taken. Start with a friendly check-in at the host stand, decorated with palmetto flowers and the words “kindness, joy and gratitude” printed in shiny Chinese characters. Anticipation builds on the walk to the table.

Observe the full dining room and open kitchen, where chefs toss garlic green beans and peppered ribeye in screaming-hot woks. Glance at the enthusiastic guests, gossiping over glowing green and orange cocktails. Listen to the server’s introductions as she sets down glasses of water on a corner table near the bar.



Peruse the menu, revealing a cast of Cantonese and Sichuan items that jump off the page. Crab fried rice. Crispy mala chicken.

Mapo tofu. Whole fried lobster with chili soy. Notice how nearly every seat has a good view — of the bar, beaming cooking area or pink dusk sky peeking through sweeping windows, partially guarded by monstera, fiddle-leaf fig and other plants.

Nod along to tunes by Kygo and The Chainsmokers, playing over the speakers at just the right volume. Feel the energy — a palpable vibe — that erases any stress from the day to allow for full appreciation of the present. Youtiao burrata and potstickers are served.

To this point, every part of the dining experience feels curated but not overly rehearsed. That’s what good restaurants do best. The food part matters, too, obviously.

Here, the modern Chinese fare arrives as it’s ready, the s.

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