Boring, surely. It's almost like that now with rosé - huge emphasis is on the palest provencal look-and-taste-alikes. Pleasant as many of these are, there is so much more to pink wine.
Don't take my word for it. Liz Gabay, Master of Wine and one of the world's foremost rosé specialists, highlighted some of the alternatives during a recent trade webinar, which prompted me to explore - with the happiest results. Cooling grapes for rosé in Maremma (Image: Tenuta Monteti/Rosae Maris) Before the journey begins, two cautions.
There are so many bottles deserving inclusion here that descriptions are minimal - simply believe me that every one is perfect summer drinking. And making good rosé takes a lot of care, so prices often reflect that. Generally, look out for a very recent vintage.
While some rosés are made to age, youthful freshness is so often key. First to Maremma on the Tuscan coast, where members of the Rosae Maris group use a gamut of grapes for wines that are elegant, rich in flavour and always mouthwateringly fresh. Atlantis Tinta Negra is a recommended rose (Image: Courtesy of the producer) Sadly, few are available here, but these are delightful: pure sangiovese Morisfarms Rosamundi (£18, jeroboams.
co.uk) and Tenuta Monteti TM Rosé , from merlot, cabernet franc and mourvèdre (£19.50, leaandsandeman.
co.uk - L&S also has the very good Illario, again sangiovese, in a mixed case). There's a remarkable range of grapes - international varieties alongside local .
