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The rise and downfall of the OG $73m Yagan Square has long been fodder for the media, a puzzle for developers and an all-but-forgotten venue for diners and drinkers. My experiences were limited but enjoyable, but over the years it dropped off my radar — and history shows I wasn’t the only one. When I heard it was placed in the capable hands of Nokturnl business partners Ross Drennan and Drew Flanagan, I was intrigued and, hate to say it, a little dubious.

Fuelled by this curiosity, some friends and I headed along for a mid-week meal at Alba. A stroll through the exterior of the mega-venue (encasing three restaurants and 11 bars known collectively as Stories) revealed it looked great but felt empty. I’ve been told it’s heaving on weekends though.



Journalism for the curious Australian across politics, business, culture and opinion. Once we’d crossed the threshold of Alba — a modern Italian offering — it was another story. Inside felt warm and welcoming, both in its neutral and contemporary interiors, but also by the people who worked there — its excellent service was a highlight of the experience.

Which is saying something, because the food was a winner too. We were there to satisfy a pasta craving and there were are seven options, though the rest of the menu read deliciously too. There was were a bunch of share plates (piccoli platti) and mains (principale).

The the snapper pie with white truffle oil sounded particularly winter-friendly. The vodka rigatoni ($33.

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