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World Chardonnay Day is May 26, a good time to recognize the most prolific and most prestigious white grape in the world. Originated in France, chardonnay is the grape variety that is the foundation of great burgundies and chablis. Yet, despite its popularity, it is the grape variety to fashionably hate.

Not us. Chardonnay is grown in almost every wine-growing region in the world because, unlike pinot noir and riesling, it adapts well to most soils and environments. Over the years, styles of chardonnay have come and gone, the most notable of which were the oaky versions from Australia and California.



Today, chardonnays undergo various levels of malolactic fermentation, a process that converts malo acid to lactic acid in order to reduce acidity and increase creaminess. This method, used judiciously, has made chardonnay more appealing to consumers than the often tart, acidic sauvignon blanc. Oak barrels in fermentation and aging also have influenced style.

A wine with 24 months of oak will be more complex — and more expensive. Oak can add flavors, including toasted almonds, coconut, vanilla and even butterscotch. Here are a few California chardonnays we recently liked: Decoy Limited Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2020 ($30) .

You get a lot of warm opulence in this chardonnay for the money. Peach and apricot flavors are topped off with an array of aromas starting with lime and ending with spice. Very viscous and enjoyable.

Mer Soleil Chardonnay Monterey County Santa Lucia Highlands 2.

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