Fashion statement or prescription for lazy dressing? Whatever your view, there are few winter garments that divide opinion – and attract as many memes – as the humble puffer jacket. The jacket, which has been around for roughly a century, has become its own cultural touchpoint, whether it’s Meghan, Duchess of Sussex and Prince Harry in coordinating ones, Rihanna at the 2023 Super Bowl or the Pope “wearing” a cream puffer , courtesy of AI and Balenciaga. But whether you prefer standard black, or the wild colours and patterns of brands such as Gorman and Unreal Fur, one thing is clear: when it comes to the sustainability credentials of the humble puffer, there are shades of grey.
“They’re quite complex garments,” says Professor Alice Payne, dean of RMIT University’s School of Fashion and Textiles. Payne, whose research has a sustainability focus, says the shell of puffer jackets is often made from one (synthetic) fabric, while the filling is made of another material, which can include animal feathers (such as duck or goose down), recycled plastic bottles, or fossil fuel-derived nylons. Both parts can pose environmental problems in their manufacturing, and challenges for recycling the garment.
Choosing well is made more confusing for consumers by the fact that price alone doesn’t indicate whether a garment is sustainable. Still, at the cheaper end of the market, it’s highly likely a compromise has been made on anything from material sourcing to the labour c.
