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Right now, it would seem, lesbians are . Which isn’t to say they haven’t been for thousands of years. But lesbians have never been more visible in popular culture than at present.

If , could 2024 be the year of the lesbian? Whether it’s Billie Eilish addressing her sexuality in her new album, Tracy Chapman performing at the Grammys in custom Prada or Renée Rapp bringing the cast of onstage with her at Coachella. On screen too, lesbian representation is the gift that keeps on giving. From the BBC’s , to Rose Glass’ gory epic and even Ethan Coen's latest comedy thriller , we’re taking over the big and the small screens.



With increased representation – particularly when brought to us by queer women creators themselves – comes increased visibility. And with more visibility comes a reminder that there is no one way to be, look, or dress like a lesbian. There are, of course, the stereotypes.

Clothing semiotics that have evolved throughout the course of the past century, and are the result of a need for signalling to other community members. Think and your mind may conjure the image of a Dr Marten-stomping, carabiner-clinking, white vest-donning, short-haired figure. And while this image is being sported proudly by many who choose to lean into it, there is no lesbian blueprint.

And the recent surge in lesbian pop culture is proof of exactly that. ‘I think that there’s a lot of variety in lesbian fashion in 2024 — but I also think that there’s a lot of inten.

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