By Charlotte Druckman Special to The Washington Post Recently, I suffered a bout of cinnamon fatigue. It was British spice expert Eleanor Ford who cured me with her new cookbook, “A Whisper of Cardamom,” in which she explores the sweet side of spices. She offers anyone who loves cinnamon new ways to use it.
That’s merely an entry point, as Ford traverses the global spectrum in pursuit of flavor. She gave me some extra insight during a delightful chat, and I’ve attempted to distill my newly gleaned knowledge into some key tips on prepping, pairing and blending spices while baking. Using whole spices gives you a bigger bang for your buck and your palate.
Usually, baking recipes ask for ground spices. Do it yourself and you’ll extract more flavor from them. Don’t forget to grind them right before adding them to your batter.
If, for the sake of convenience, you opt for pre-ground, make sure they aren’t past their prime. “If they’re beginning to smell a little dusty and disappointing, that’s what they’re going to bring to your cooking,” Ford says. Steeping is the act of leaving a whole spice to sit in a warm liquid that absorbs its flavors.
Do this when making something smooth, such as ice cream, custard or mousse. Fat is an excellent carrier for flavor, so cream, milk, butter and oil will always do a better job of capturing the intensity of a spice. Alcohol is similarly effective; water less so, but it can get the job done (think tea).
Although savory cook.
