The show was a homage to London’s spirit as a fashion capital, with Jeffrey – who is pictured here adding the final touches backstage ahead of the show – a champion of the city’s DIY creative spirit. The Loverboy universe has amassed a swathe of loyal fans in the last decade, from British avant-pop artist FKA Twigs to actor Tilda Swinton, who was sitting front row at the show. Jeffrey’s interpretation of a distinctly British, somewhat eccentric approach to style saw the designer send models down the catwalk in striped pyjamas, as if emerging from sleep.
The look was club kid meets Lewis Carroll. A post-punk influence was evident throughout the collection, with draping, deconstruction and the sense of undone-ness everywhere. Beth Ditto, pictured here, closed the show with a performance of Patti Smith’s Gloria, backed up by the Somerset House choir.
Smudged makeup and tousled hair was apparently inspired by the idea of a look unravelling over the course of the day. Army and sailor uniforms were printed on to unconventional knitwear, with Jeffrey’s work often toying with historicism. As Jeffrey explained: ‘It’s the idea of playing with power structures.
’ The bride is a figure often taken by designers and used as inspiration – Jeffrey’s take on bridal came complete with frothing veil and blue eye shadow. Jeffrey is very much a proponent of the more playful, fun side of fashion, an attitude that is summed up here by a model in a sweater emblazoned with a ma.
