Regionalism is a powerful factor in Mexican cuisine. Oaxaca does its own variety of mozzarella. The chile poblano – a mild green pepper used in chiles en nogada , the de facto national dish – takes its name from Puebla.
Tequila was a place before it was a drink. From Yucatán comes the pit-oven technique known in Mayan as p’ib – as in the al fresco fiesta classic, cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pig seasoned with annatto seeds). The epicentre of culinary experimentation is Mexico City, but it’s also the place to try food from street vendors and in fuss-free taquerías and cantinas specialising in botanas (snacks) and boozing.
Basically, you’re hugely spoilt for choice. For a meal to brag to your friends about, try to get a table at Pujol – chances are chef Enrique Olvera will have invented some novel 'theme' for his tasting menu. For cold beer and salty snacks and a sense of the past, aim for La Opera cantina.
For a fiesta atmosphere, Azul Histórico is great, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings – and the food is arty but fun, and filling. Centro Polanco Roma Juarez Clavería Jardines del Pedregal All around the city Mexican cantinas – the equivalent of inns in the UK or saloons in the United States – are about atmosphere as much as food or drink. Operating since 1876, La Opera has wood-panelled walls, tiled floors, filigreed ceilings and red velvet booths, and is a lot fancier than some of the more spit-and-sawdust Tecate-swilling joints.
Famous .
