One of Ireland's most popular destinations is the Iveragh Peninsula – known to shamrock lovers everywhere as the “Ring of Kerry.” The Ring, lassoed by a winding coastal road through a mountainous, lake-splattered region, is undeniably scenic. Visitors since Victorian times have been drawn to this evocative chunk of the Emerald Isle, where mysterious ancient ring forts stand sentinel on mossy hillsides.
It seems like every tour bus in Ireland makes the ritual loop around the Ring, using the bustling and famous tourist town of Killarney as a springboard. I skip Killarney, whose main attraction is its transit connections for those without cars. (Don't confuse this overcommercialized town with the scenic and worthwhile Killarney National Park, nearby.
) Instead, rent a car and use as your home base the tidy town of Kenmare (it’s actually won Ireland’s “Tidy Town” award). While in Kenmare, druids seek out the town’s ancient stone circle (with 15 stones in a circle 50 feet wide), one of about 100 little Stonehenges that dot southwest Ireland. Fitness buffs enjoy horseback riding, boating, hiking, and golfing – there are many ways to experience Ireland’s 40 shades of green.
Before or after the day you tackle the Ring, consider exploring three worthwhile sights near Kenmare. The first is a stately home called Muckross House, perhaps Ireland’s best Victorian mansion. Queen Victoria really did sleep here for three nights in 1861 – on the ground floor because she .
