London in 48 hours: From dive bars to Soho decadence

The tricky part, I find, ahead of a rare return to the city in which I spent my 20s, is how to enjoy London to the full without compromise.It's simple, right? I want to stay in the heart of the city. I want to stay somewhere amazing but I don't want to break the bank to do it.Balancing wonder and location usually comes at a hefty price, and likely ends up with compromising accommodation to find a more budget-friendly option.READ MORE: Culinary delight that's the perfect way to start or end your next Fijian holidayIt is possible, though, to live London to its fullest without breaking the bank. Budget would be a stretch, but you can spend two days here and feel like you at least glimpsed into the soul of the city without being left with the credit card bill to prove it.Where to stayWe stayed at The Hoxton - one night in Holborn, which borders Soho, and one night in Southwark, which runs parallel to the Southbank.The Hoxton hotels say they are 'inspired by the diversity of the streets that surround them', and that could easily have translated into a series of cliche, identikit hotels.But the Hoxton have got this just right. We loved our stay there. The rooms have character without feeling they have tried too hard. Exposed brickwork and piping blends with quirky wallpaper. Comfy, practical chairs and beds blend with odds and curiosities placed around the rooms, from cameras to Dante's Inferno. While artwork from the local Central Saint Martins students adorns the walls.You know the one ....'She came for Greece she had a thirst for knowledge. She studied sculpture at Saint Martin's College'The cosy, snug room is absolutely fine for a bolthole, a place to lay your bag, and then your head, as you barhop nearby.A wine bar nestles underneath the hotel while a restaurant serves up British fare with a twist from breakfast to late.But it's the small touches that make this hotel so special. From the curated hotel guides and customised Google Maps with local recommendations, to the top tips from other guests pinned up beside the elevators. The staff were also all incredibly friendly and helpful.READ MORE: Bridgerton fans will want to check out this UK cityMy favourite perk though was free hire of a folding Brompton bike.I took one out early Sunday morning through the empty streets of Soho, up into Marylebone and around Regent's Park. It's an incredible way to see the heart of a city now so attuned to cycling.And best of all bike hire is free for up to three days and your Brompton is small enough to nestle in the small corner of a coffees shop.We stayed in a larger room in Southwark and it suited the more relaxed vibe of the area perfectly. There is a great eating option downstairs in the Albie, which is open from breakfast to late, with particularly impressive vegetarian fare, from poke bowls to Korean vegan chilli dogs.And the fantastic roof bar Seabird offers a great view of the city, combined with heaters and blankets so you can snuggle up with a cocktail and watch London come to life at night. I'm told the Seabird Oysters are also worth making the trip for.Nearby Borough Market and the South Bank offer perfect opportunities to take your time and stroll through my favourite part of the city - and best of all it costs you nothing.What I really loved about the hotels though was that it feels like part of the trip, not just a place to stay. It feels exciting. It feels luxury. It feels London.Things to doThe Tate Modern is always my go-to when I have a few hours to spend. You discover something new every visit and part of the joy is the journey - either meandering along the Southbank, stopping via the latest pop-up bar which straddles the Thames, or heading across the Millennium Bridge.For later on at night, Trisha's on Greek Street is no longer Soho's best-kept secret but still as wonderful as ever. The basement speakeasy offers a glimpse into old Soho, with some live music and colourful characters thrown into the mix. Be warned, the door policy is random but be nice and you should be fine!Eat and DrinkMildred's is a vegan institution and has now branched out across the city serving extraordinary plant-based delights. The original on Lexington Street in Soho is still the best but does get busy. Book before arriving.My favourite place to grab a drink is Bradley's Spanish Bar, just off Oxford Street. It has barely changed in the past two decades, set across two cramped floors. No matter when you go in it feels like 10pm at night. The company is eccentric, the juke box full of tunes and the beers cold.The writer was a guest of The Hoxton Hotel for two nights but paid for all other expenses including travel, food and drink.FOLLOW US ON WHATSAPP HERE: Stay across all the latest travel news and deals via our WhatsApp channel. No comments, no algorithm and nobody can see your private details.