The bus from Reeth to Keld offers a wonderful opportunity to enjoy Swaledale, a dale full of character and interest. It is possible to take the Swale Trail along the valley floor but it is much better to head over the northern moors. Keld is at the upper end of Swaledale and is a remote but lovely place.
It marks the crossing of the Pennine Way and the Coast to Coast, so whoever you see may be on one of these popular long distance trails. From the bus, drop in to the village and turn right along a lane high above the embryonic River Swale. After 200 metres, turn left, steeply downhill, on a path leading to a bridge over the river.
Climb up the other side until meeting a wide bridlepath and turn right. The path contours the hillside and passes two waterfalls, the second is the impressive Kisdon Force. Soon after a switchback in the path, a less obvious path leads up to Crackpot Hall, a derelict place of legend.
It is an intriguing place which is safe to explore. Continue along the path contouring the hillside as it bends in to the impressive Swinner Gill, a steep sided V-shaped valley. Follow this to a footbridge, turn left and enter a second side valley where the path climbs on to the open moors.
This is grouse shooting country, the butts on your left as you arrive at a wide 4x4 track. The walk is now across wide open moors with far reaching views all round. A track to your left (just after a gate) leads to the remote "Dales 30" summit of Rogan’s Seat, a 45-minute detour (t.