Customers line up to order at Red’s Eats in Wiscasset last summer. Brianna Soukup/Staff Photographer Is there anything more quintessentially emblematic of Maine than a lobster roll? Lighthouses, arguably. But when you’re hungry, those aren’t much of a help.

And nor are they particularly Maine-specific; after all, there are nearly 19,000 lighthouses found all over the globe. But a lobster roll? Now that’s a Maine-centric icon you can sink your teeth into. Ah, but not so fast.

As much as an institution as the lobster roll may be, opinions differ greatly over the best way to cook, serve and eat them. Some argue it’s sacrilege to dress the lobster chunks with anything but melted butter. (That’s known as Connecticut-style.

) Others fiercely advocate for the Maine version, which comes tossed with mayo, tarragon and celery or scallions. Some like their bun grilled, some steamed, while others prefer them uncooked and served at room temperature. Some want theirs served plain with a side of harbor views, others are satisfied with only the heftiest of portions, while others are happiest when theirs is laced with international flavors or luxury toppings.

Here’s where to find top-notch specimens of all of the above. The lobster roll at Red’s Eats has more than an entire lobster’s worth of meat. Brianna Soukup/Staff Photographer FOR SIZE: Red’s Eats Don’t let the inevitable long line deter you; it’s here because this is home to some of the most generously stuffed rol.