In a country best known for its ocean beaches, permit me to initiate you into the joys of Sri Lanka’s inland waters. There are several places, all within easy reach of major towns, which provide you with many hours of tropical magic. Radiating outwards from the central hill ranges into the lower hills, then across the plains and into the island’s many rivers are hundreds of little streams, leading into large ones and eventually into beautiful pools, cascades and a myriad of fascinating vistas to enjoy.
Of these pristinely lovely spots are such little hamlets as Erathna, Kuruwita, Atweltota, Kitulgala and Belihuloya. And there are dozens more, as yet to be explored with face-mask and flippers, perhaps, an underwater camera. Since 1935, many of the lovely little fish from these streams have found their way to Western countries.
Sri Lanka has maintained a reputation for some fine living gems from these waters. Although they have left us by the thousands, more take their place from breeding in ideal surroundings and almost everywhere you travel to watch fish, you are not disappointed – as long as the waters stay clear and there is no heavy rainfall high up in the mountains. This is also a gemming country, Ratnapura being the centre of the trade.
It is not uncommon for fish watchers to meet gem-seekers of all ages (the older, more grizzled fellows with marvellously photogenic faces seem to have the most experienced eyes of them all) and see how they work. There is nothing fr.