A pizza shop that’s been slinging pies for just over 20 years wouldn’t, in most cases, be considered historic. But as fast as downtown Denver changes these days, looks like a landmark. Proto’s red-brick building at the corner of 15th and Platte streets, which came to life around the turn of the (last) century, helps provide a distinguished aura.
So does the nearby , which has been serving booze since 1873, before Colorado was even a state. But look south, or travel northeast on Platte, and you’ll see layers of new construction anchored by the upscale, high-density Central Platte Valley, just across the South Platte River. It’s no stretch to say that someone who only visits downtown every few years would get lost there.
Proto’s, founded in Longmont in 1999 by Boston transplant Pam Proto, has held down its Platte Street location since 2001. While the business counts a half dozen locations now, the Denver version is where my wife, sister and I used to confab before a night out, or bring family during visits from Ohio. The wood-fired pies, pillowy panini, peppery arugula and showers of crushed red chile flakes draw me back, as I was reminded on a sunny afternoon last week.
There have been a few peaks and valleys, but the overall consistency there reminds me of also-dearly departed names such as The Med in Boulder, and Benny’s Restaurant & Cantina in Denver. In other words: family friendly spots with decent (if not deep) wine and beer lists, and a flair for special o.