Once upon a time, resort was aimed at the stylish nomads of Café Society; today it must speak to “latte girls” and their ilk. Is it any wonder, then, that this season, which sits longest on the selling floor, has become something of a grab bag? Designers are tasked with anticipating the needs of customers who might be chasing the sun, or the snow, while simultaneously hoping to sparkle at year-end events. It’s a big remit, and a vague one, that’s further complicated by a challenging social and economic environment.
Ballasting almost all of the collections Vogue Runway reviewed was denim—jeans, in particular. The option are many, and while the fuller leg remains, there’s definitely a movement towards a slimmer leg and higher waist. That last characteristic connects with the boho narrative that’s weaving early-aughts nostalgia (think Sienna Miller) with the original hippie icon, Anita Pallenberg, who is the subject of a recent .
At , newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele dreamed up a massive Avant les Débuts collection that looked back at Pallenberg’s times, but from a different angle. He referenced the house founder Valentino Garavani’s 1968 all-white couture collection, while other designers were thinking of the Space Age fashions of the mid-1960s. Elevating things, though not taking them out of this world, were , ’s Sabato De Sarno, and Maria Grazia Chiuri of , who incorporated demi-couture-level craft into their collections.
As at the .