This story is from an installment of The Oeno Files , our weekly insider newsletter to the world of fine wine. Sign up here. Cabernet Franc gets around in more ways than one.
The parent of four of the other grapes used in Bordeaux, (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot , Malbec, and Carménère) it is grown in just about every New World wine region for use in blends or as a single varietal. It’s also bottled on its own in Loire Valley appellations Bourgueil and Chinon and as a blending grape in Bordeaux. Across the border in Italy, Cabernet Franc was primarily confined to the north, where its challenging ripening process often resulted in a sharp, green flavor profile and a less-than-favorable reputation.
All that changed with the rise of Super Tuscans; although Cabernet Franc was initially planted in small amounts in Bolgheri and elsewhere in Tuscany , it has really hit its stride recently in high percentage blends and monovarietal wines. While its fortunes back home in France have languished for years, Cabernet Franc is now the star of the show thanks to a critical mass of high-end bottlings in Tuscany. What’s fueling this newfound interest and success for Cabernet Franc? Climate change.
With rising temperatures, dry summer months, and other extreme weather conditions, grape varieties like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon can struggle. In contrast, Cabernet Franc, which is naturally late-ripening and resilient to adverse weather, benefits from the warmer climate, maintaining longe.