THERE is an island in Greece that is more popular with holidaymakers than ever. Hundreds arrive every day. However, it has no bar, no nightlife, no vehicles, no hotels, no restaurants, no shops, no inhabitants and little in the way of fun.

6 Take the plunge in Domes’ adult pool Credit: Supplied 6 Our suite was perfect for our family of four Credit: Supplied 6 In Tholos restaurant, a buffet overflows with Mediterranean and European choices Credit: Supplied Even when people DID live there, they were banned from ever leaving — their existence was miserable and short-lived. Spinalonga, off the north-eastern coast of Crete, is sun-drenched and surrounded by crystal clear sea, but it has a dark history. Made famous by Victoria Hislop’s hit novel The Island, it was a home for lepers who were cut off from society in case they infected others.

A cure wasn’t found until around the 1950s. Now it is a tourist attraction, and after taking a short boat trip you can wander around its little windy lanes and explore the abandoned community with its church, school and tiny houses. There is a real air of mystery and sadness as you walk round the maze of paths, the sea twinkling temptingly at the end of shadowy alleyways.

We based ourselves back on Crete, opposite Spinalonga near the pretty coastal town of Elounda, an hour’s drive from Heraklion airport. Fishing and tourist boats jostle with each other in the quaint harbour, which is surrounded by busy restaurants, cafes and souvenir s.