This two-fisted sandwich is inspired by a Vietnamese banh mi. Banh mi is a fusion of Vietnamese and French cuisines. It comprises a soft baguette layered with meat (often pork or chicken), quick pickles, leafy herbs and chiles, with a generous smear of pate, aioli or mayonnaise.

It’s a delectable convergence of contrasts — crunchy, juicy, creamy textures and sweet, salty, spicy flavors — that deservedly nudges this specialty into addictive territory. It also provides enough flexibility in ingredients to appeal to nearly everyone, with perhaps the one fixed rule: Provide plenty of napkins. This variation jettisons meat and replaces it with a soy- and Sriracha-slicked salmon fillet.

Wafer-thin cucumbers and quick pickled carrot and daikon provide crunchy, sweet and sharp freshness. A garlicky, spicy yogurt-mayo sauce lends cool creaminess to every bite. (You can use all mayonnaise if you prefer.

) For the bread, choose a wide baguette to contain the fillings or individual sandwich baguettes. Lightly toast the bread to help prevent sogginess from the fillings and lend more crunch to the eating experience. Makes 2 sandwiches 2 skinless salmon fillets, each 6 to 7 ounces and 3/4 inch thick, pin bones removed 1 large baguette, cut into two (5- to 6-inch) center-cut sections (or 2 small sandwich baguettes) 1 (3-inch) piece of English cucumber, very thinly sliced 1 to 2 jalapeno peppers, thinly sliced, seeded (optional) Fresh cilantro sprigs Marinade: 1/4 cup soy sauce 2 tablesp.