I f I was forced to choose, I’d say I’m a butter, cheese and pickles man. I love mine open and I tend to go for sourdough, even if that does induce eye-rolls from many. I’m talking, of course, about sandwiches, a subject on which everyone has wonderfully strong opinions.
What bread to use? Cut it on the diagonal or straight down the middle? Is it OK for anyone over the age of seven to cut off the crusts? And that’s before you even start discussing what’s going inside. Slices of tomato: sublime or soggy? A handful of crisps: critical or criminal? A lettuce leaf or two: lovely or limp? Fish finger sandwiches: right or wrong? Such seemingly innocent questions, yet ones that incite such firm feelings. (My reply to that last question, incidentally, is revealed by today’s first recipe, which takes the concept, dials it up and feels pretty strongly about the presence of a soft white roll.
) Old Bay fish sandwich with cheat’s tartare sauce (pictured top) I’ve no idea why, but I’ve been seeing those distinctive, yellow-and-blue tins of Old Bay Seasoning everywhere recently. This spice mix from Baltimore – “for seafood, poultry, salads, meats,” the label promises – comes in three varieties: original, hot, and lemon and herb. I tried this with all three before eventually settling on hot, so by all means use whichever you prefer or can get hold of.
Alternatively, use a Cajun spice mix, or a combination of celery salt, cayenne pepper, garlic and onion granules, an.