Vijay Hashia The exodus of the Kashmiri Pandits in the 1990s marked a significant and tragic chapter in the history of Kashmir. Decades later, even with changing circumstances, many Kashmiri Pandits still harbour doubts about their return to their homeland. The writer’s last week’s visit to Kashmir, after 34 years since the exodus, provides a unique perspective on the region’s evolving dynamics.

During my week-long sojourn, encompassing visits to various temples, the once tumultuous downtown Srinagar, a few rural area enclaves, and prominent tourist attractions, I discerned a noteworthy transformation in the mindset of Kashmiri Muslims. The hospitality I received was heartwarming. A Muslim friend, without fret and fear greeted me at the airport, offering a vehicle for my use and checked on my well-being daily.

Another friend gifted me saffron, walnuts, and cherries. An old neighbour embraced me warmly and offered me kahwa, a traditional Kashmiri tea. Everywhere I went, whether reconnecting with old college friends, neighbours, or local businesses, the atmosphere was one of friendliness and cordiality.

The Kashmiri Muslims attitude towards Kashmiri Pandits has significantly softened, reflecting a genuine desire for their return, peace and progress. The changing political climate also seems promising for the potential return of Kashmiri Pandits. However, deep-seated fears and memories of the past persist.

For decades, Kashmir has been viewed as a troubled zone within Indi.