O n 30 May 1987, Waitrose announced the introduction of a new range of dips: tzatziki, taramasalata and hummus. This was the first time they had appeared on supermarket shelves in the UK and they were so novel that they needed explaining. Hummus “is a traditional Middle Eastern hors d’oeuvre made with chickpeas and sesame seeds,” the label advised, under an illustration of palm trees and minarets.
Fast forward 36 years, and our appetite for dips appears bottomless. They – and their partners in crime, crispy snacks – are a shopping basket and restaurant staple, and not a summer or Christmas goes by without a new limited-edition dip causing a storm online. They’ve become “mandatory”, says restaurateur David Carter, whose latest opening Oma has received rave reviews of its “showstopping” hummus.
For restaurants, dips are an easy win, tapping into our longstanding love of bread and butter before dinner and “dialling it right up”, says Carter. “They are mainly cold and veggie, so we can get them out in five minutes” – placating hungry customers while they linger over the menu or wait for the main courses – “and they are huge sources of creativity.” Like bread and butter, dips and dippers serve as a culinary calling card.
“Get those right, and people are excited for what’s next. They show you’re serious about detail and sourcing. It’s imperative you start on the right foot,” Carter adds.
View image in fullscreen Greek taramasalata, made.