T hough I enjoy a spring roll as much as the next fried-food fan, the freshness of the Vietnamese summer version has my heart, especially if I’m the one preparing it. Fun to make and easy to adapt to suit different tastes and diets, it’s fortunate they’re so healthy, because once I start rolling, I find it very hard to stop. Prep 20 min, plus cooling time Cook 25 min Makes 8 150g pork belly , rind removed (optional – see step 1) Salt 16 large prawns , preferably raw (optional) 1 lemongrass stalk , crushed 200-225g packet rice vermicelli , or other rice noodles 8 rice paper wrappers 2 Chinese or ordinary chives , cut into 10cm lengths (optional) 4 sprigs fresh mint , leaves picked 4 sprigs fresh coriander , leaves picked 4 sprigs fresh perilla , or Thai basil, leaves picked (optional) 1 carrot , peeled and grated 1⁄4 cucumber , cut into thin matchsticks 1 soft lettuce , 1⁄2 shredded, the rest separated into leaves 4 tbsp roasted peanuts (I like salted), roughly chopped For the dipping sauce 1 tbsp sugar 2 tbsp lime juice 1 tbsp fish sauce 1 garlic clove , peeled and crushed 1 bird’s eye chilli , finely sliced 1 A note on the protein Although commonly made with pork (leftover roast would also work well), feel free to substitute cold cooked chicken or firm or fried tofu; just make sure everything is cold, dry and sliced thinly enough to fit easily into a roll.

If using cooked prawns, skip step 3 and instead cut them in half lengthways and remove any shell. 2 Poach .