I f you’re one of the many non-vegans currently screwing up your nose in disgust at the idea of scrambling tofu, I confess that no one was more sceptical than me ...

until I actually tried making some. After all, though it’s not so difficult to substitute plant-based ingredients in more complex recipes such as meringues or custards , scrambled eggs offer no place to hide. But, actually, eggs, like tofu, are more about texture than flavour, so get that right, and you’ll be surprised how well this plant-based version works.

The tofu View image in fullscreen Joanne O’Connell fries and then grills her 1970s-style tofu scramble. Thumbs by Felicity. Just as some people prefer their scrambled eggs cooked to dry, firm flakes while others favour a looser, creamier set, the consistency here is a matter of personal preference.

What type of tofu you use will depend on the result you want: as BBC Good Food points out : “You can use any kind of tofu when scrambling it and the choice depends on whether you like a soft scramble or a firm scramble.” I try recipes using soft tofu, which America’s Test Kitchen found had “a texture closest to eggs, yielding pieces that, when crumbled, were smooth and creamy”, as well as firm and super-firm varieties. Ali Slagle dries and presses the tofu before use , while Mob Kitchen dries it , but explains that there’s “no need to press it, as we want to keep some of the moisture here”.

Indeed, unless you want your scramble to be very f.