This story is from an installment of The Oeno Files , our weekly insider newsletter to the world of fine wine. Sign up here. Historically, change at legacy wineries has been a family affair, with one generation handing over the reins to the next.
Until recently it was traditionally the oldest son who inherited the winemaking title and responsibility, and often a son-in-law would have to do in the event of no suitable male heirs. Fortunately, that system has been upended in the New World, where a worthy assistant can assume the winemaking mantle when their predecessor moves on to greener pastures (or vineyards, in this case). When Dan Petroski left Larkmead, one of Napa Valley ’s oldest family-owned establishments, to focus on his white-wine-only brand, Massican , in 2021, it seems it was an easy decision for the proprietors to drop the word “associate” from Avery Heelan’s title and promote her to the role of winemaker.
It didn’t hurt that she has some serious bona fides with stints at Screaming Eagle, Domaine Yves Boyer-Martenot in Meursault, and the lauded Capel Vale winery in Western Australia filling up her résumé. While Larkmead’s wines had received multiple 95-plus point scores from critics and developed a large following, Petroski had built a name for himself outside of Larkmead with his white wines, digital Massican magazine, and other initiatives. Heelan stepped into her new role in July 2021, shortly before harvest, and immediately decided to alter th.