Elephants face mortal threats in Sri Lanka, but one tour operator is letting visitors help save them, by Annabel Venning Sipping champagne, looking across the waters of the Nachchaduwa reservoir as the light fades, we watched birds swoop in for their evening roost: herons, storks and eagles, along with a host of smaller, colourful birds from red-vented bulbuls to barbets, shrikes and swifts. Peacocks shrieked in the distance – we had passed several on our way here from our hotel, the nearby Uga Ulagalla, which organises these scenic drives to the perfect sundowner spot where you can watch the fiery blaze set over the water. Several couples have come back from this drive engaged, unsurprisingly.
It’s a ridiculously romantic setting. No proposals were forthcoming among our small group. But something just as exciting happened.
We heard what sounded like a bellow. Was it a water buffalo? Katharina Raaben, the head naturalist at Uga Ulagalla, gave us binoculars as a trio of great beasts wandered into view. Not water buffalo but three elephants on the far side of the reservoir, cavorting happily in the shallows, splashing, wallowing, and trumpeting joyfully.
We were transfixed. Read more: Why now is the best time to visit wild, untamed Sri Lanka Earlier in the day, Katharina had warned us we were unlikely to see any elephants, as they were generally elsewhere at this time of year. We were lucky indeed.
However, not everyone in Sri Lanka is so happy to see these graceful animals.