Inspired by a song heard on its owners’ honeymoon, Celentano’s brings a true taste of Italy to the heart of Glasgow When lunch begins with a fat, crispy fritter of porcini mushroom and Corra Linn cheese lasagne, you know you’re on to a very good thing. I’m late to the party I know but I finally made it to Celentano’s in Glasgow’s Cathedral Square. Celentano’s is run by chef-patron Dean Parker and his wife and co-owner, Anna.

Occupying the ground floor of the historic Baronial-style Cathedral House, the beautiful restaurant is flooded with light. A mezzanine splits the space, creating a variety of seating options from larger tables for groups to bar seats for walk-ins. Dean rose through the culinary ranks in London at Robin Gill’s restaurants The Dairy, Sorella and Darby’s, before the couple returned to Anna’s hometown to open Celentano’s.

The restaurant is inspired by Italian food culture and culinary style, and named after a song the couple heard on repeat during their Italian honeymoon. It’s a relaxed, convivial spot. When I visit many tables are clearly occupied by regulars and a birthday party is happening in the private dining room upstairs.

We start with a pair of rich smoked cod doughnuts topped with the zip of homemade kimchi, the delicious aforementioned fritti, a bowl of olives and a house cocktail. I’m half-expecting a small-plates menu and it’s refreshing to actually have a classic three courser instead with a choice of two starters, th.