What’s wrong with dark academia? What’s not to like about a long, flowing cloak, coupled nicely with a waistcoat, trousers and boots in an elegant autumnal ensemble – think Eddie Redmayne in ? Or perhaps some rustic, chequered skirts take your fancy, paired with a scarf as skinny as you like? If you attend this university and don’t feel something when watching you’re lying to yourself. Or are you? This subculture has attracted more than its fair share of blowback, much of which I don’t agree with. Let’s go through the central charges.
“A lot of dark academic imagery draws upon Eurocentric culture” Elitism? It is, I fear, the point of dark academia. To be honest, a bunch of would-be progressive Oxbridge students denying their institutions’ exclusivity is a laughable sight. In any case, rocking “intellectual fashion” isn’t that out of reach, relatively speaking.
Browsing Vinted as I write this piece, I find that I can snap up a scarf, a suede jacket, a tie and a button-up shirt, all for under £30. Meanwhile, a pair of the latest mass-market Nike trainers costs over £150. Racism? Admittedly, a lot of dark academic imagery draws upon Eurocentric culture: think Harry Potter and the Gothic architecture of elite Western universities.
It also glorifies things, such as the nebulous “old money” aesthetic (why won’t that shit leave my IG reels?), that are white-coded. None of this, however, means that the subculture can’t be reclaimed by people of col.
