Night Moves bakery’s whipped feta sandwich with sliced radishes, pea shoots and lemon-chive vinaigrette. Photo by Peggy Grodinsky I forgot to go to the Portland Farmers’ Market on Saturday, and midweek I was still cursing myself for my absentmindedness. Even this early in the growing season, when most of what’s on offer is seedlings, the market is an annual rite of spring for me.
Luckily, before Saturday rolled around again, Night Moves bakery’s whipped feta sandwich turned my frown upside-down. The sandwich ($15), with its thinly sliced, nearly translucent radishes, carpet of pea shoots, and lemon-chive vinaigrette shouted spring. I am sad to report I ate it sitting at my desk, but in a perfect world, I’d have tucked it into my bike pannier, hopped onto the bike path in South Portland (which passes right by Night Moves) and ridden to Bug Light for a picnic.
Like pretty much everything else in American food in the last 30 years, sandwiches have gotten a major upgrade. Serious-minded cooks and bakers everywhere are taking care with each component. In this case, the pea shoots and radishes came from Stonecipher Farm in Bowdoinham, while the feta – which the bakery whips with cream cheese and olive oil – came from Pineland Farms in New Gloucester.
Night Moves makes the focaccia on which it builds the sandwiches, and it takes care to spread both both top and bottom with the whipped feta, which, in turn, holds the radishes in place. A good sandwich needs contrast in .
