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IT took only one shot of Zivania to rid myself of my annoying little cough. The Cypriot firewater was just the tonic to soothe my sore throat — after the burning wore off, of course. Not that I needed anything to warm me up, with Paphos — just four hours from the UK — being a sizzling 29C right now.

And I was learning to go with the flow after our tour guide, George, told us the itinerary was being changed so he could take us to his favourite spots. Driving out of Paphos, we passed miles of citrus trees, verdant hillsides and vineyards before stopping off for a coffee at one of George’s favourite places in the tiny village of Mamonia. Milos, a small roadside coffee stall run by a mother and son, is the place to drink a real Cypriot coffee.



Ground beans and sugar are mixed in a long-handled metal cup or pot called a briki. The pot is pushed through super-heated sand and, as the coffee comes to a boil, a thick, creamy foam forms before it is then poured out. And while we enjoyed our 10am brew, George brought out the first of the many firewater brandies of the day for us to have a shot of.

Thankfully I was also served the freshest halloumi alongside it — nothing like the versions in the UK . We were speedily handed a second plate after it barely lasted a few minutes. And a visit to Cyprus is nothing without a trip to a winery, of which there are dozens scattered across the island.

The inimitable George drove straight past the one we were meant to visit. “They wanted .

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