No sooner had editors tapped out “the return of boho“ into their autumn/winter 2024 trend reports than talk between fine jewellery tastemakers and industry insiders turned to the revival of semi-precious hardstones. “Boho fashion is all about expressing individuality and a connection to nature, which fits perfectly with the raw, vibrant appeal of hardstones,” explains Tania Nawbar, co-creative director of Beirut-based brand Atelier Nawbar, who works extensively with this genre of gems. Loosely defined as semi-precious stones that are durable and can be carved or moulded, hardstones tend to be opaque or translucent, and they often display unique, natural patterns.
“Precious coloured stones such as sapphires, rubies and emeralds are incredibly beautiful, but also extremely valuable, and while they can be worn in the summer, they don’t always capture the carefree feeling of the season,” says fine jeweller Fernando Jorge. The Brazilian designer’s new Celestial collection relies heavily on hardstones to deliver his signature organic and sensual style, while riffing on a zodiac theme. “Hardstones are beautiful and abundant in nature, therefore not as formal and exclusive,” he explains.
Speak to any contemporary designer working with hardstones and they immediately reference this effortless, casual air. “They are unpretentious by nature,” says Matthew Harris, founder of Mateo, whose pieces often feature onyx and malachite set in yellow gold, a chic nod to his.
