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Focaccia is having a moment. The bubbled Italian bread is being sliced into thick, golden pillows and filled with everything from cold cuts to meatballs in vodka sauce. Here’s our top pick, plus three others to try around town.

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For this guest takeover of Sandwich Watch, the column dedicated to the Sydney sandwiches you need to know about, I’m taking you to my favourite focaccia newcomer: Delisia . It’s a small sunlit cafe in a Forest Lodge terrace, with a sandwich-making set-up like a bougie Italian Subway. The counter is filled with deli goods, from beef bresaola to pecorino spread, and there are 15 Italian-inspired sandwiches − 10 “classics” priced at $16.

90 and five “epicures” with premium ingredients priced at $18.90 − each served on focaccia bread. All the fillings look good, particularly the best-selling, beautiful Figaro with slices of blush-pink figs, prosciutto, burrata, honey and rocket.

But I think simple and savoury is the go here, so my pick is the Lorenzo ($16.90). Long rectangles of focaccia are baked in-house, every morning.

They’re golden and a little crunchy on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside, and sliced so thick you’ll need two hands to devour it. Honestly, it’s so big you could probably share one between two people. The L.

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