The smell of fresh corn tortillas permeates the streets of Oaxaca city, as people hustle to get tacos from their favorite stall before it runs out. Known as the cradle of corn, the state is renowned for its cuisine because of its history of domesticating this staple, Oaxaca gastronomy has developed from deep ancestral knowledge with a blend of Indigenous, Spanish, and other international influences. Visitors to this great city all have one question though: Where is the best street food in Oaxaca, and how do they find it? A great place to start exploring Oaxacan street food is in the city’s markets.
Most are open every day from dawn ‘till dusk, although I recommend going in the mornings. Dive in and you can find a rainbow of fresh produce and beautiful artisan goods. My favorite market spot is the food court at the Mercado Merced, off Calle Murguía.
The first tables you come to are catered by Fonda Rosita. The family makes amazing chilaquiles that come still bubbling in a casserole dish: layers of tortilla chips, herbs and cheese in spicy red or green sauce. I usually get my chilaquiles with a couple of fried eggs on top.
The largest market in Oaxaca is the Central de Abastos. It’s home to a huge expanse of stalls, more or less organized into different sections such as fruit, flowers, clothes and carpentry. There are also some great spots to get classic street food.
The sprawling market can be a little difficult to navigate at times, so it’s helpful to explore with a.
