Looking up to the cliffs off Guernsey’s south coast, the only sound was the splash of the waves against our kayak and the call of squabbling gulls high above. With the sun shining over this most westerly of the Channel Islands, the only questions disturbing our peace were whether the tide would be high enough to venture into some of the sea caves (not quite) and how wet my trousers would be by the end (very). It’s this beautiful coast that draws most visitors to Guernsey today — white sand beaches, wildlife including seals, dolphins and puffins, and a thoroughly laid-back vibe.
But you soon discover that beyond those very real temptations, Guernsey’s history includes some far less serene chapters. Even on Petit Bot beach, where our kayaking expedition with Outdoor Guernsey had started, a small 18th-century Martello (or loophole) tower sits at the top of the little cove, one of 15 built to guard against possible attacks by the French – the north coast of Normandy is so close here that my phone intermittently declared that I was in France. But it’s a more recent chapter of history that left a bigger mark on these islands; the five-year German occupation during the Second World War.
Still often little known to many in the UK — although the popularity of book and film educated many – one of the best places to start is at the German Occupation Museum, a few minutes’ drive from Petit Bot. A short video provides some background, including on the evacuation of child.
