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Before the infamous rain-soaked rumble in the classic film “The Outsiders,” Darryl, played by a young, sinewy Patrick Swayze, steps out from his unruly crew of greasers to stand face-to-face with Paul, the leader of their “socs” rivals. In seconds, the two will be throwing hands, but for one pivotal, brooding moment, their class divide is communicated not by words, but by a single item: Paul’s varsity jacket. The signature swag of gridiron Goliaths and hoop heroes, the varsity jacket has long been synonymous with .

Its origins trace back to Harvard University in 1856, when some basketball players sewed a large “H” onto their grey flannel uniforms. The “letterman” jacket or sweater, as it became known, evolved from an item worn during games to one that signified socioeconomic status, physical prowess and fraternity when the stands had emptied and the lights had gone out. In the 1930s, when high schools started adopting the collegiate trend, the melton wool jackets with leather sleeves prevalent today emerged.



And while there has been a slowdown in youth representing their school sartorially, the garment is still very much at the forefront. This season, the menswear staple has been embraced by everyone from Dior to H&M, resulting in a wide array of options — from sleek and refined to playfully patch and logo heavy — in a number of different fabrics. “The varsity jacket has never really gone out of style,” says fashion expert and GQ editor-at-large Jim .

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