It takes less than an hour by car to reach the southernmost edge of Lake Como from the congested streets and blaring horns of central , yet it’s an entire world apart. As you pass through the city of Como and rise up the road to Cernobbio, on the western side, the lake’s glittering carpet of blue is revealed; through a haze, you can just about make out the grand villas and church towers clinging to the opposite shore. It’s one of the world’s most dreamed-about holiday destinations for a reason.
When I visited in May, I was heading for arguably the dreamiest corner of this famously dreamed-about locale: the grand hotel of , nestled below the rambling town of Moltrasina. Despite only opening its doors in the summer of 2022—and being ranked as the top hotel on the planet by The World’s 50 Best just a year later—it’s the kind of place that feels like it’s existed forever. And it sort of has: the estate was built for a count in the late 18th century, and as my black sprinter van crunched over the gravel and pulled up to its imposing entrance, my driver pointed out the medieval church that adjoins the gates.
(My curiosity about it was clearly communicated to the concierge, who arranged a tour for me the following morning with a local retired teacher who had been closely involved in its restoration.) But back to that theatrical entrance. After passing through the gates, decorated with the logo of three fishes you’ll spot on everything from door handles to crocker.
