I talk to a lot of chefs. And when the conversation isn’t focused on something deadline-driven, I’ll often ask where they’ve eaten. Most don’t have much time for dining out.
They’re too busy feeding the rest of us. Sometimes, though, my question unearths a gem. Or in this case, a gem of a reminder.
Chef Jes Tantalo’s Redlight Redlight menu gives no mixed signals: Go | Review “I was off the other day and hit Singh’s Roti Shop ,” one told me recently. “They had people in there, but man, not enough. The doubles .
.. so good.
That place should be packed! ” Indeed, the stewed channa here is a love-infused marvel that will make you feel like your own grandmother made it. Even if you’ve never eaten curried chickpeas in your life. There’s warmth in it that goes beyond whatever mellow heat its seasonings impart.
And the bara (flatbread) in which it is wrapped? The recipe is likely uncomplicated, but it takes mastery to get that texture on target — sturdy enough to handle the sauce and peas, soft and chewy enough to make you feel hugged. Unlike this chap, though, Angie Singh hasn’t had a day off for a long time. Her restaurant is open seven days a week.
Channa-stuffed doubles are by far the most popular item in this largely Trinidadian establishment, and to put it bluntly: They’re amazing. That said, I hadn’t had one in probably five years, until this random convo sent me back. Singh has been cooking for 22 years in this location.
But her tenure in the .
